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Rear Camber Kit fitting VT, should apply to most I.R.S

#1 User is offline   SSLS1 Icon

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Posted 18 November 2006 - 11:30 AM

This is a bit od a guide to fitting an adjustable camber kit to the rear of a VT Commodore. I think it should be the same for VQ right through to VY(if any one knows different please say)
Don't be scared to try this, not that difficult! (wheel alignment MUST be done straight away when finished)
Here is the kit i fitted to my car
Posted Image
First jack up car, mine was on a hoist at work(much easier)
this is the right hand side, same procces for other side
Posted Image
I found it quite easy to remove entire suspension arm(instructions say to do it in car, meh who needs instructions)
Do this by clamping the brake hose then undo(end of flexible part, not at brake caliper), the sway bar link, and slip handbrake cable off the lever.
Then mark the position of the driveshaft(for re-assembly) undo allen head bolts, shaft will sit out of the way once suspension arm is lowered.
While supporting the suspension arm(with a jack prefferably) undo the lower shock mount.This will allow you to remove the spring. Once this is done the suspension arm can hang straight down.
Next, remove inner suspension arm bolt, the arm will come down a little, this is ok.
Posted Image
Then undo the outer bolt, VT onwards this bolt has to be cut to be removed, here is the bolt, just slide out as far as possible, then with a mini hacksaw(looks just like a handle,but holds a hacksaw blade) cut the bolt close to the threaded end. While supporting the arm(another person comes in handy here) grab some pliers and pull whats left of the bolt out.
Once out, put into a vice, This is what it should look like
Posted Image
Now you have to remove the standard bushes from the suspension arm.
First grab your self a normal hacksaw(just the name of this tool sounds rough!)
The bushes are one piece with a step on each side as shown
Posted Image
just cut around this to get rid of the step, doesn't have to be neat, just enough for the bush to slide out of the arm see pic
Posted Image
Grab an electric drill, bigger is better here, with approx a 10mm drill bit
Drill down along side the inner sleeve, this loosens the bush in the arm.
Do this four or five times around the bush, then with a BIG hammer, knock the bush out.
Repeat this for the other bush
Now you are ready to fit the new bushes, as these are two piece it's just a matter of pushing them in!
Apply the supplied grease to the inside and slide in the eccentric sleeve(adjustable bit in middle of bushes)
Fitted they should look like this
Posted Image
Now it is time to refit the suspension arm, that other person comes in handy here.
There are now two bolts per bush, one each side instaed of one straight through
One of the bolts is longer with a nut on it, this is the adjuster bolt, it bottoms out in the bush and is used to turn the eccentric sleeve when fitted to the car. The other short bolt fits the other side to keep it tight.
The adjuster bolt in each bush needs to go in the correct side to make it easier to adjust, For the outer bushes(both left and right sides of car) the adjuster goes in from the outside, and the inner bushes the adjuster bolt goes in from the inside, this is purely to make it easier to adjust once all fitted.
After this it is just a matter of assembling in the reverse order of dismantling, not forgetting to bleed the rear brakes
Sorry there are no pics of it fiited, was getting bit rushed by the time i got to that point.
I did the wheel alignment myself, but if that is not possible, take it somewhere staright away to have it done!
because of the toe adjustment, driveshaft angle can be affected which could possibly cause damage if a proper alignment is not carried out straight after fitting.
Even if you do not want to attempt this yourself, i hope it gives a little insight in to what is done
Any questions or additional info or hints are welcome

This post has been edited by SSLS1: 22 November 2006 - 06:05 AM

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#2 User is offline   hoarey Icon

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 08:44 PM

Yeah i was talkin to PJ the other day and he said this was on here i brought a simaler kit a few months back but decided too exchange it for some betta rotors for the front of my car and after reading this i think i may need too invest in 1 again if i end up keepin my VT or even if i end up buying another VT or simaler model but ya never know!!
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#3 User is offline   BLOWN-VT Icon

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 08:54 PM

Thanks for the heads up mate very interesting read
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#4 User is offline   hoarey Icon

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Posted 20 December 2006 - 08:59 PM

From memory the kit i got was jus under $300, but i'm not 100%
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#5 User is offline   BUZURK Icon

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 02:26 PM

whered the kit come from i need one b4 the car comes bak on the road?
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#6 User is offline   hoarey Icon

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 07:38 PM

Any parts dealer... But i got mine from burson's..
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#7 User is offline   VU_SS_UTE Icon

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 02:23 PM

If anyone's looking at doing this, id suggest they get the full nolethane bush kit for the a*s end and fit it at the same time, costs 149 I think from repco and does wonders to reduce the axle tramp!
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#8 User is offline   xlr8ta Icon

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 03:05 PM

Have you fitted one of these or are you talking about your mates ute?

The full compliment of bushes certainly helped the tramp in mine but it was still evident but to a much lesser degree
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#9 User is offline   VU_SS_UTE Icon

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 08:46 PM

View Postxlr8ta, on Feb 1 2007, 04:05 PM, said:

Have you fitted one of these or are you talking about your mates ute?

The full compliment of bushes certainly helped the tramp in mine but it was still evident but to a much lesser degree


I havent, but will be. I ws talking about the gold one that was in at your work with the bushes (still the one behind to diff to go) fitted and the koni's his loves it now!

The way to can it altogether is the harrop diff cover, holds more oil and stops tramp altogether, about 500 bucks though!

This post has been edited by VU_SS_UTE: 01 February 2007 - 08:46 PM

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#10 User is offline   xlr8ta Icon

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 08:50 PM

Thought that would be the one you were talking about.

And those Harrop diff covers are the go, removed the rest of my tramp ;)
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#11 User is offline   VU_SS_UTE Icon

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 09:32 AM

View Postxlr8ta, on Feb 1 2007, 09:50 PM, said:

Thought that would be the one you were talking about.

And those Harrop diff covers are the go, removed the rest of my tramp ;)



Oh excellent someones finally got one and can confirm it works! I'll be getting myself one of those when the 3.9s go in then :D
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#12 User is offline   nathan78 Icon

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 04:08 PM

thanks for the info, i googled how to do the job and found the origanal post most helpful... thanks again.
ps. a hoist is the way to go, i did it on the ground and its a rightpain in the rear
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