Now i have the car together,figured it was time to start on my boot
I am going to mount the sub up on the differential hump behind the back seat..
just got a few questions about the box
# which way is best to point the sub?towards the front or towards the back?
# Is a sealed box or ported box better?whats the difference in sound?
# is there a certain thickness of MDF to use and what is it?
# is there a need for insulation inside the sub box itself(such as pink batts or something similar)?
Any help would be appreciated
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Sub Box Help
#2
Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:05 PM
PWR 051, on May 17 2006, 07:54 PM, said:
Now i have the car together,figured it was time to start on my boot
I am going to mount the sub up on the differential hump behind the back seat..
just got a few questions about the box
# which way is best to point the sub?towards the front or towards the back?
# Is a sealed box or ported box better?whats the difference in sound?
# is there a certain thickness of MDF to use and what is it?
# is there a need for insulation inside the sub box itself(such as pink batts or something similar)?
Any help would be appreciated
I am going to mount the sub up on the differential hump behind the back seat..
just got a few questions about the box
# which way is best to point the sub?towards the front or towards the back?
# Is a sealed box or ported box better?whats the difference in sound?
# is there a certain thickness of MDF to use and what is it?
# is there a need for insulation inside the sub box itself(such as pink batts or something similar)?
Any help would be appreciated
i could be wrong here but ill give it a shot
bass is a non directional sound so it doesnt reall matter wich way they are pointed but id go for them facing the rear seat for protection
from memory seald gives better sq &portedd box is more directed @ spl
i used 18mm mdf for my 2 subs,used lotsa screws,liquid nail & silicon
ive put pillow dowl in my current box so it doesnt sound so "boomy "
hope some of that helps
scott
#3
Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:49 PM
yeah I think a sealed box is just easy way to make it sound good, you really can't go past a decently tuned ported box.. but coming across one that's done correctly is sorta like hen's teeth.
Best place to find out is on the TASumm ASCA
website, or pm Paul Sice on here VL1987 for memory..
But what scott has posted above is all pretty sound advice... haha pun intended
Best place to find out is on the TASumm ASCA
But what scott has posted above is all pretty sound advice... haha pun intended
#4
Posted 17 May 2006 - 09:14 PM
I've always been told that for db its better to have your sub facing a corner so the waves bounce toward the back of the car, then hit the back of the car and come back at you - because the further bass travels, the bigger the waves get and the louder they are. Hence why, if you have a loud sound system in your house, its not the next door neighbours that complain about the noise, but the people 4 houses down the road.
Could be wrong though!
Sutton will be able to add useful comments to this thread
Could be wrong though!
Sutton will be able to add useful comments to this thread
#5
Posted 18 May 2006 - 09:21 AM
Hehehe, thanks Jess, lol.
It is preferable to point it toward the rear of the car, don't ask me why, I can't remember, it's just better, lol. However, you should also have the sub close to something. What I mean is, idealy the sub should be facing the corner of the boot at the taillight and be about 25-30cm away from the corner. This is called corner loading and will make the sub sound louder. But, considering you're having it on the diff hump and there is nothing for the sub to 'fire into' I would say point it forward. Keep it about 15-20cm from the ski port, this will give a good change for the bass to develop before hitting something and should make it quite loud and punchy (ski port closed). With the added bonus of being able to open the ski port and have the sound project directly into the cabin if you want. I feel this will make the sound boomy though.
Some subs are specific to either sealed or ported boxes. Most new (last 2 years) don't matter, but you should read the instructions that came with the sub. If you don't know what one it is then just Google the part number or post it here. Someone will know.
Anyhow, a sealed box will give a nice tight sound, be accurate, great if you listen to dance/club/punk/metal ets. If you go for a ported enclosure you will get slightly higher SPL (volume), at the sacrifice of accuracy (it will go boomy). This is more suited to classical music and music with string instruments, chellos and the like as they have long droney notes.
Also, ported boxes have to be made EXACTLY as the manufacturer says. The slightest miscalculation on port size, box volume or port position can have dire consequinces for the sound, and your sub.
Use at least 18mm MDF. Put craft glue (the white one) or silicone on all the joints before you screw them, don't worry if it all goes every where, just wipe it off with a piece of damp paper towel. Trial assemble the box first though, make sure it fits. I would have a screw about 15mm from the end of the piece of wood and then about every 50-70mm. Once it is all together stick your hand in the hole for the sub and put a bead of silicone in all the corners. Run your finger over it to smooth it out and you're done. I recommend use Gap Sealer, I think Sellys or someone makes it, you can normally pick it up for like $2/tube at Bunnings.
There is no need to put anything in the sub box except your sub. Adding anything, Dacron fibre, insulation, anything, will make the sub 'think' the box is bigger (these are reasons WAY to complex to explain here!) and thus buggers the enclosure size you carefully worked out and at best makes the sound crap, at worst can kill your sub and amp.
The only reason to add Dacron is if you had to make the box say 30% smaller than recommended. A 1" coating of Dacron will add 1/3 to the box volume (no 2" doesn't add 2/3, 1" is the maximum). This is far from ideal however and I wouldn't recommend it.
Hope that helps.
PWR 051, on May 17 2006, 07:54 PM, said:
# which way is best to point the sub?towards the front or towards the back?
It is preferable to point it toward the rear of the car, don't ask me why, I can't remember, it's just better, lol. However, you should also have the sub close to something. What I mean is, idealy the sub should be facing the corner of the boot at the taillight and be about 25-30cm away from the corner. This is called corner loading and will make the sub sound louder. But, considering you're having it on the diff hump and there is nothing for the sub to 'fire into' I would say point it forward. Keep it about 15-20cm from the ski port, this will give a good change for the bass to develop before hitting something and should make it quite loud and punchy (ski port closed). With the added bonus of being able to open the ski port and have the sound project directly into the cabin if you want. I feel this will make the sound boomy though.
PWR 051, on May 17 2006, 07:54 PM, said:
# Is a sealed box or ported box better?whats the difference in sound?
Some subs are specific to either sealed or ported boxes. Most new (last 2 years) don't matter, but you should read the instructions that came with the sub. If you don't know what one it is then just Google the part number or post it here. Someone will know.
Anyhow, a sealed box will give a nice tight sound, be accurate, great if you listen to dance/club/punk/metal ets. If you go for a ported enclosure you will get slightly higher SPL (volume), at the sacrifice of accuracy (it will go boomy). This is more suited to classical music and music with string instruments, chellos and the like as they have long droney notes.
Also, ported boxes have to be made EXACTLY as the manufacturer says. The slightest miscalculation on port size, box volume or port position can have dire consequinces for the sound, and your sub.
PWR 051, on May 17 2006, 07:54 PM, said:
# is there a certain thickness of MDF to use and what is it?
Use at least 18mm MDF. Put craft glue (the white one) or silicone on all the joints before you screw them, don't worry if it all goes every where, just wipe it off with a piece of damp paper towel. Trial assemble the box first though, make sure it fits. I would have a screw about 15mm from the end of the piece of wood and then about every 50-70mm. Once it is all together stick your hand in the hole for the sub and put a bead of silicone in all the corners. Run your finger over it to smooth it out and you're done. I recommend use Gap Sealer, I think Sellys or someone makes it, you can normally pick it up for like $2/tube at Bunnings.
PWR 051, on May 17 2006, 07:54 PM, said:
# is there a need for insulation inside the sub box itself(such as pink batts or something similar)?
There is no need to put anything in the sub box except your sub. Adding anything, Dacron fibre, insulation, anything, will make the sub 'think' the box is bigger (these are reasons WAY to complex to explain here!) and thus buggers the enclosure size you carefully worked out and at best makes the sound crap, at worst can kill your sub and amp.
The only reason to add Dacron is if you had to make the box say 30% smaller than recommended. A 1" coating of Dacron will add 1/3 to the box volume (no 2" doesn't add 2/3, 1" is the maximum). This is far from ideal however and I wouldn't recommend it.
Hope that helps.
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