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Replacing Head unit - Vt Clubby

#16 User is offline   SS1304 Icon

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:44 PM

solder and tape or heat shrink would be best
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#17 User is offline   vtclubby Icon

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:48 PM

dont have solder or heat shrink... all i have is tape...
however ive got some diff crimps now an they are going on much more secure...

the ones i were using were larger at one end (the end you crimp) where the kind im using now are widish at the ends and thinish in the middle (where you crimp them) so they seem fine now.
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#18 User is offline   vtclubby Icon

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 10:46 PM

i give up....
gonna buy an iso to jvc adapter. give up on the crimps, got it all in... all speakers/everything working.. pushed it into place... secured it. tried it out again... front left and rear left speaker not maing noise...
pulled it out. fixed them. had them going. pushe it into spot. front right not working... pulled it out crimp on that one had come undone... GAVE UP
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Posted 09 May 2010 - 10:51 PM

Thats why we always solder and tape joins.

Thought you said you already bought the adaptor?
There is only one needed...
What was the part number on the adaptor you bought?
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#20 User is offline   vtclubby Icon

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 11:01 PM

tis the holden to iso.
and for what i intend on doing there is another part needed. iso - jvc.
means i plug the holden to iso into the original harness... then plug the two iso harnesses together. then plug the iso-jvc into the back of the jvc and push it into the console... and done.

only problem is there is two options...
one for a round hole plug and one for square hole plug...
i think mine is the square but the the diagrams look the same.

This post has been edited by vtclubby: 09 May 2010 - 11:03 PM

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#21 User is offline   bradster Icon

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:50 AM

i usually go one better and solder the wires while the two harness's are out of the car as the solder takes up less room and gives you a better conection but yes wrap tape around them but use electrical tape not sticky tape

just make sure none of the wires are exposed because they will short out


oops sorry didn't see the second page

This post has been edited by bradster: 11 May 2010 - 09:52 AM

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#22 User is offline   HR1966 Icon

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 10:32 AM

There may be some information here that might help. I made this when I did the install in my VT SS.

Solder and heat-shrink the joints, or an OEM adapter. Scotch-clips and crimp connectors are a temporary solution at best.
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#23 User is offline   SS1304 Icon

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 09:09 PM

Just had a look at all ur pics of ur install. looks sweet and clean as. might look into doing the same to the vt when i get around to it
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Posted 17 May 2010 - 11:25 AM

View PostSS1304, on 14 May 2010 - 10:09 PM, said:

Just had a look at all ur pics of ur install. looks sweet and clean as. might look into doing the same to the vt when i get around to it


Depending on a couple of business deals the whole car will be for sale nearer Christmas. I will pull the gauges, amps and sub out and sell them seperately. The sub box looks great and the whole system sounds awesome. Sub box was time consuming and potentially expensive to make, but it's worth it for still having maximum boot space (and easy removal if you need to).
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#25 User is offline   vtclubby Icon

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 02:59 PM

got the harnesses today and its all connected. sitting loosely in place untill i get off my a*se and pick up a single din pocket to whack in there...
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