[Charged_V6_Stato]

Hi all, i am making some progress with the Statesman...

got a questioon for you all.. Who is the man to see tho get a good Re-spray that wont cost the earth ???

Any suggestions for a good baky yarder wanting to do a cash job, or maybe a business that is not going to want 10K for a respray...

I am not talking a show room respray, just something pretty neat..

Brett

[Ben]

Me too.

Willing to spend... mid four figures but not $10k up, for a good job. Willing to do as much of the prep work myself as is necessary, if that helps.

[BLOWN 383 UTE]

I do paint jobs at home but would not be able to start anything until late january.
I painted the ute and a few other cars. Send me a pm if you are intersted at all.

[Ben]

Thanks Besty.

The car does need some minor panel work and rust repair, which someone else will have to do (not confident I'd get it right!!). So it'll be at least a month or two before that will be done, knowing the panelbeaters I know. I'm just about to start stripping the car back over the next few days, hopefully I won't find too many other nasties.

May well take you up on the offer yet, do you use 2pak or just acrylic? I know of one other person but was told they pretty much only use acrylic...

[Asho]

In my experience you get what you pay for body/paint wise. Don't skimp and get it done right the first time

[Ben]

Yep... but then I would expect to pay $10k or more to get it done through a bodyworks. My budget just won't stretch that far, materials cost to do it in 2pak would only be $2k maybe. The car is totally dismantled right now, no interior/glass/etc and the engine will be coming out in the next week or so. So there's no fiddly removing and refitting of stuff to get at anything - I'll put it all back together once it's painted too.

Honestly, I am strongly considering doing it myself but I would have to buy a MIG, and though I've got a bit of experience I'm not confident I'd get the repairs right. And I could soon set up a makeshift booth in the shed and do it in acrylic but that would cause some friction with my partner and I'd prefer someone who's had plenty of practice to back me up.

[BLOWN 383 UTE]

2 pak is the only way to go. It does not fade, better shine and easy to spray.
Just look at the vn commodores to the late ones, no fading on the boot bonnet or roof.

If you needed help and you wanted to do it yourself i can guide you. Its not as bad as you think just takes time.

You dont need to pay a fortune for a good job. I rushed the ute when i painted it, it took 2 weeks to paint it about 5-6 years ago and still is great eithen after all its been thru.

This post has been edited by BLOWN 383 UTE: 20 December 2008 - 11:45 PM

[Ben]

Thanks mate. I do agree with you, 2pak is the way to go and that's what I would prefer to do it in. The only reason I would've done it in acrylic if I did it myself is that I believe acrylic is more forgiving for a beginner (can just keep blocking back and giving it another squirt, no need for mixing in hardeners etc) and that the chemicals aren't as toxic.

But yes, would definitely prefer 2pak.

At the moment the big thing stopping me from doing it myself is the (fairly minor) rust repairs and panel work the car needs. They're not big repairs but some of them could be a bit fiddly. I'm going to start scouting around tomorrow and see whether any of the bodyworks guys I know have shut up shop for Christmas yet (they probably have) so I can see if they'll give me an idea.

If worst comes to worst and they want way too much money I will get them to straighten the car and then we'll do the painting ourselves, how does that sound? I can pay for your time of course, just need a little more space than what I've got in my shed and a slightly bigger compressor than my pissy little one

[Jason]

Most of the ones we deal with at work have shut. The only one I can think of that's actually open is FT Guy.

And they all shut until the 5th it would seem.

[Ben]

Yeah that's what I figured... unfortunately I start a new job on the 5th and will find it difficult to run too many errands on work time, at least in the short term. Gotta make a good impression!

Oh well...

[BLOWN 383 UTE]

Ben, on Dec 21 2008, 11:38 AM, said:

Thanks mate. I do agree with you, 2pak is the way to go and that's what I would prefer to do it in. The only reason I would've done it in acrylic if I did it myself is that I believe acrylic is more forgiving for a beginner (can just keep blocking back and giving it another squirt, no need for mixing in hardeners etc) and that the chemicals aren't as toxic.

But yes, would definitely prefer 2pak.

At the moment the big thing stopping me from doing it myself is the (fairly minor) rust repairs and panel work the car needs. They're not big repairs but some of them could be a bit fiddly. I'm going to start scouting around tomorrow and see whether any of the bodyworks guys I know have shut up shop for Christmas yet (they probably have) so I can see if they'll give me an idea.

If worst comes to worst and they want way too much money I will get them to straighten the car and then we'll do the painting ourselves, how does that sound? I can pay for your time of course, just need a little more space than what I've got in my shed and a slightly bigger compressor than my pissy little one

The 2-pak is just as easy trust me, you can block back respray over again. If any thing i think its easier than acrylic. The mixing formula is very basic and easy to follow. More than hapy to help and go straight to 2-pak eithen if you do it yourself you wont have any problems once you get the flow of how it all works.

[brenny]

you can repaint my ute for me dave ...same col and few shopping trolly dings to fix....will come see ya soon prolly looking near feb as i want the rest of the kit on before its painted.....ya keen?

[Howie-VL]

Asho, on Dec 20 2008, 06:16 PM, said:

In my experience you get what you pay for body/paint wise. Don't skimp and get it done right the first time

Mostly true. But Hally Re-sprayed his missus daewoo in a custom metallic purple mix about two years ago and it still looks awesome.

The job cost $200 LoL

[Ben]

Well I have finally found a bodyworks willing to do it (Breens)

The cost will be... well let's just say a fair bit. But it'll be bare metal, on a rotisserie, done properly.

Has anyone had any experience with their work before? I have dealt with Mark before but never actually had any work done by him. Just gotta make a final decision on whether I go with him or keep looking.

[dwaynE]

i've seen some of Breens work Ben and it looked pretty good...

if they're going to that much effort with it i'm sure it'll be great... be sure to be friendly with them and get in there and snap some pictures during the process